Merry Christmas from Chassagne-Montrachet

First off, MERRY CHRISTMAS.

Well, I got the day after Christmas off.      I can feel the rest of my thoughts catching up with me, hitting me in the back of the head as I have stopped. Please, forgive my absence, and allow me to share:

I had the joy of sharing what was the best white wine I've ever had thus far, to date, and probably the most expensive, which happened to be a gift from my boss, Maria:

Jean Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru- La Maltroie 2010

How do I know it's the best white wine I've ever had? Because I could not stop finding more pleasantries while drinking it. It had never-ending pleasing character and qualities which my palette finds enjoyable.

What qualities are those? As soon as I opened it I could smell the apply tart-freshness coming from it. Luscious, juicy aromas enticing the senses to come dive in. A bit of earth you can sense from the robust character of the Chardonnay grape- a rustic, confident hint of honesty.

I was anxious at the first sip knowing I was getting into a wine of character I've not experienced before.  Excited, but nervous perhaps for a let-down, or an experience happening outside of my ability to understand; Nervous for my self not being good enough. Yet, as high quality craftsmanship should express, this wine is undeniable, inviting anyone who drinks it to have more.

Like it hit every corner of my mouth, my senses were endlessly connecting notes defined by all I know as excellent.

Fresh, juicy, ripe green apple; Honey; light notes of hay; candied lemon; bruised apple; ripe pear; minerality like fast-moving, fresh river water;

We had butternut squash with gorgonzola, broccoli rabe simply done with garlic and olive oil, peruvian purple potatoes with sour cream and a little butter, and a standing rib roast with herbs and garlic. A guest brought an italian red wine which would be considered proper for such a meal and I poured myself some, but kept my Burgundy even closer. I was half surprised and half not to find that this white wine paired extremely well with this meal. Sensing more of the fresh acidity combatting (palette cleansing) and complementing the fattiness of the meat, the herbaceous character from the broccoli accenting the honey character in the wine, and the squash and gorgonzola accenting the tropical fruit expression in the wine- I just couldn't get enough.

In proper form, I am sad to finish the bottle. Nonetheless, a forget-less experience.

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas, whether simple or grand cru classe. And, also, have a Happy New Year!!

Stoneacre Pantry

I first learned about these new guys in town over the summer. I heard they wanted to start a butcher shop, a restaurant, a wine shop... all this word of mouth. When I did meet Chris Bender, I thought he was super nice, but others around me were vocal about their own skepticism. 

So naturally, I turned on the discernment radar. What are these guys really trying to do? 

There are three partners, but Chris Bender is the only one I have had the opportunity to really converse with.

Chris came into Newport Wine Cellar a few times. Discernment radar on. I learned that Chris has an import license. Through minimal conversation, I learned that Chris knows his French and Oregon wines. I learned that Chris is not pretentious or snobby. I learned that Chris is super sharp and focussed, without being completely blinded by his work. Chris is a genuinely nice and open person with nothing to hide. 

Stoneacre Pantry the first time had not yet received there license to serve alcohol. I love BYOBs because I can bring my own choices of wine without spending billions! I made it a date inviting a beautiful young lady to join me. It was an experience made extra special by the chef sharing some special treats he made for us to try. The fresh lobster consumme in between courses was perfect with the Bugey Pinot we had- both acid driven. Everything we had was delicious. I brought the Justin Cabernet which went perfect with the Pork Belly dish on the menu. The Scallop dish my date had order paired well with the Bugey Pinot again, yet I remember it had enough power and elegance on the plate to pair with the Paso Robles Justin. In true generous fashion, Chris shared some '98 Rivesaltes with dessert to finish off the evening.

Stoneacre works together with local businesses. Buying farm fresh vegetables from local friends and fresh daily bread through a local shop I know very well, they have proven to be just some really cool guys doing great business. 

Last night a friend and I decided to just get a drink at Stoneacre. We found seats at the bar next to some friendly locals. My friend does not drink wine, so we decided to try some Bourbon! I was excited to see the wine list as their license is in full effect- they pour Puffeney Arbois Troussard BY THE GLASS! To no surprise Chris has some serious gems hand-picked by himself- Yes i tasted; yes they are spectacular. 

This writing is not supposed to be all about Chris, but it says a lot about a person and the business when they just share openly the knowledge and experience they have acquired. Chris truly is a genuine nice and open person with nothing to hide. All that skepticism I felt from others in the beginning is fear. This is not a game to Chris and his partners; they are ahead of the game on many levels. Criticism and personal opinions are inevitable and unavoidable. There is no doubt in my mind that these guys can deliver a thoughtful new experience that will challenge and expand our current knowledge and experiences. They are a perfect addition to the local intellectual foodie community. 

(I'm still pondering the peach crumble, thyme blueberry compote, and mint ice cream... had with my bourbon.)

Cheers!!

FALL into place.

So, the weather has been perfect. But fall is here and what does this mean? RED wine. I've been branching into uncharted territory with these white wines and rosé all summer. And I am thankful for it!

But praise the Lord, it is FALL and I can dive into glasses of Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Poulsards and other elegant wines for this season upon us! Now, I have not completely let go of whites as I crave the Donkey and Goat Sluice Box, Red Hook skin-fermented, and some Garnier Chenin Blanc. Call them funky, call them rebels, whatever you call them just ask your local wine shop for some unfiltered skin maceration fermentation.

'Tis the season for a little extra juice and flavor.

Cheers.

REFINED REBELLION: LEADERS OF THE NEW SCHOOL

Wine at its simplest form is rustic, cloudy, powerful and unfiltered. Today we have wine that have innovated to be clear, light and beautiful- free of sediment. Back in the day, thousands of years ago, wine was more simple. Crushed grapes were put into cask and fermented. I picture the spicket at the bottom of the cask, like getting Gatorade on a high school football sideline.

Orange wine, which I have heard being referred to as "hipster" wine, is part of this simple, rustic, unfiltered wine movement. And it's freaking awesome! Basically, it just means white wine fermented on the skins which is a process not usually used because the skins give the wine more tannins and phenols. Phenols are just a fancy name for stuff that is going to make the wine taste awesome- tannins too. Fermenting on the skin gives it the orange color.

Red Hook Winery winemaker Abe Schoener is doing just this. The wine is absolutely delicious and fantastic. In a sales world we call this wine for the beer drinker. The line of Orange wines coming out of Red Hook Winery are so good you could pound it. Allow me to go back to my experience-

The wine is orangey in the glass, pouring out of a 500ml bottle. I'm working with "Outstanding in the Field" (@OITF) on Sweet Berry Farm in Portsmouth, RI, and I'm soaked to the bone drenched in rain. OITF is this movement that travels across the US setting up Farm-table style dinners sourcing specifically local food and wine. I went into this thinking Newport Vineyards was supplying the wine and was pleased to experience a wine from the North Fork, NY. Enter Darren from Red Hook, pouring simple, powerful, beautiful Chardonnay wine from his snub-nose weapon for us to taste and serve to the 150 guests. "Some people call this Orange wine, or Hipster wine."

I remember this wine as flavorful, bold, and obviously impressive. I remember thinking dry Cider, with this appley crispness and a rounded caramelization. The juice was heavy weight, with great mouthfeel. It sat on my tongue like a sumo wrestler, punched the sides of my cheeks, and then danced around like a child with an apple juice box and straw. I would drink this wine with a straw... maybe... if I don't just put the bottle right to my mouth.

This wine will kill any doubt about whether or not the new-school cats making wine in Brooklyn, NY are failing. They are nailing it. They have done their homework. The proof is in the glass and the experience. I will never forget it and am working hard on getting it here to RI.

Cost

Been busy here in Newport, serving locals, tourists and la-dee-das that come here for the summer fun. I haven't been writing much, and for me it takes away from my thought organization. I have been thinking just the same, always learning and making connections between wine and life.

While talking with a distributor (Wine Bros.!) today about getting some new wines into the state, he says, "Anyone can find good wine that is expensive; NOT everyone can bring in good wine that is affordable.”

I kept rolling that line over in my head because it is true. The definitions of "good" and "affordable" will vary to a certain degree, yet for the buyer of these wines it is very important to understand what they are spending their money on.

We all need money; we all spend money. We all work on something to create this income. When the income becomes the priority, buyers become skeptics no matter the price. 

My philosophy is about keeping the distance between the farmer and the drinker as small as possible. Then, the art coming from the hands that made it can truly be understood. The soil that these grapes grow in can be tasted. Less fake; more organic. 

We spend money on these wines, therefore we must believe in every part of it- the taste, the philosophy, the work, the region, the hands that made it. 

The cost should translate to particular reasons, like availability, vineyard size, overall quality, and time spent in process. I don't want to spend my money on macro-productions, big machines, and others' extravagant lifestyles. I want to pay for something I believe in; hard work, quality, research, honesty, and flavorful truth. 

The grape is in your bottle. 

Cheers

YOU GOTTA WAIT FOR THE “CLICK”

2006 Jean-Marc Morey Santenay Blanc – It just didn’t click for me. A funky front nose and a highly acidic tart finish demanded some weighty food. The wine “clicked” with the Jamestown Fish signature dish, the seafood cookpot. The chourico, spice, butter and touch of cream in the broth was the perfect match complimenting and contrasting the weight and bright acidity of this wine. I found a comfort zone between the pair, but on its own the Burgundy white was surprisingly tart. Still in love with Jean-Marc Morey wines, yet this seven-year-old chardonnay is not one I’ll open to drink on its own. Past it’s prime? Possibly.

Jamestown Fish served us some of the highest quality, most passionately made dishes I have had in a very long time. Fresh (that day) scallop and tuna served raw, sliced, topped with Israeli Osetra Caviar accompanied by heirloom grape tomatoes, sliced avocado and an herb olive oil reflecting precision, passion, and well-rounded stimulation of the senses. The clam linguine stayed true to the proper flavors and textures by definition- the clams thrown in late as not to over cook, the sauce not heavy-laiden with butter or too much wine. 

Talking with owner/executive chef Matthew and his colleagues inspired me at that moment to rethink everything I am doing in life and to make sure I am following my passion. The way Chef Helio Araujo spoke about the ice cream and how he must let it sit so that the air settles out and it firms up a bit to create the traditional texture he looks for. In his eyes, in his words, and in every movement you could feel the passion pouring into his art.

There is something about learning anything about anything or anyone that can be a little fumbly or bumpy. Any new information about any subject must go through this process of collecting, organizing and finding its proper place. Throughout the evening I found that even though that Santenay may not have been the taste I was looking for, having someone and/or others to talk with about it makes the decision about that wine more real. You gotta be honest. It absolutely doesn’t hurt to open a few others for comparison. Chef Matthew and his colleagues allowed me and my date to try a 2007 Latour-Giraud Bourgogne Chardonnay and the upper level 2009 Latour-Giraud Meursault-Genevrieres Premier Cru as well as a Walter Hansel Chardonnay. The favorite- Walter Hansel Chardonnay. The weight and cleanliness showed through as simple, yet chiseled, expressing it's fruit perfectly without any heavy oak. As Chef Matt was saying, "this wine is focussed."

Everyone has their favorites. The different characters expressed come from age, region, wine maker, grape, climate, and any external influences. Appreciate each wine and all the information you can gather from it. Not every wine has to be my favorite, but all this experience helps me understand the wines that are my favorites. When trying any new wine, give it some time and just wait for the “click”. 

Cheers. 

IN LOVE AGAIN WITH CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR:

I would argue that in order to truly fall in love, one must trudge through difficult times with their object of love. Distance inevitably created between them for open space to think and reflect on the other while continuing the daily routine. So I've spent some time away from le California Pinot.

Pinot Noir threw me some loops. Last summer I had the opportunity to learn about and experience Burgundy Pinot Noir. Albert Bichot, Jean Marc Morey, Hubert Lignier,… I watched these wines pour into the glass and immediately was impressed by the light-red, ruby color that these wines were showing. Condensed in the glass, the ruby red has left an impression in me that gets me all excited every time I even think about that picture, anticipating pure joy. Spoiled at the Cooke House I am, being able to taste bits and ends of these crystal-ly,  elegant rubies. Now I have a tough time comparing Pinot Noir to anything else which is completely unfair. I have started to call the light-style pinot noirs as “Burgundian Style”, which I thought was ok after experiencing the Torii Mor Pinot Noir, from Oregon. At Torii Mor, winemaker Jacques Tardy brings his background, his roots, his beliefs, knowledge, and experiences into its fullest expression within the Pinot Noir he makes. Jacques comes from the Cote de Nuits of Burgundy, France.

On July 4, I opened a 2008 Au Bon Climat from Santa Barbara, California for my dad’s birthday. Hi Dad! You know sometimes when you just nail it? Everything fits perfect? Dinner that night for my father’s birthday was smoked chicken with a robust salad full with mesculin greens, blueberries, peaches, veggies, dill herbs and light feta. It just worked perfectly. The fruit in the wine highlighted the smoke of the chicken and the fruit in the salad. The spice in the wine held up to the fat in the skin and the mesculin greens, herbs and cheese in the salad. The body of the wine is light, perfect not to overpower the palette on a hot summer eve. An experience full with flavor.

Lucky I am to be able to taste wines unavailable anywhere else in the country, like this Abiouness from Carneros (Pommard Clone and Stanley Ranch). Chloe Creek is a gem Pinot from Russian River, California, made by a small producer who has ties in upstate New York- where much of my family is from. The Calera collection I anticipate to be an amazing experience. Hendry and Belle Pente are all up there in our collection of Pinot-Noir-impressiveness.

THE Sinskey family is in town and I had the opportunity to join them yesterday at Local 121 in Providence. Meeting the Sinskey family was reassuring and confirming to all the accolades I have heard from others before meeting them. Highlighting the Pinot Noir, their wines are made honest to their beliefs of good wine, not-manipulated, and true to the terroir the grapes are grown. Giving the finger to the rich, fat, popular judges, they avoid the points-rating system. The vineyards in Carneros, which Robert’s father started acquiring back in the 60’s, grow some incredible pinot noir creating some gorgeous, flavorful wine. Thank you, Sinskey family, for helping me fall in love again with California Pinot Noir; all of your wines are amazing. Your attitude and philosophy is one I believe in. 

Cheers! 

Expectations and biased opinions interrupt the learning experience-

Sharecropper’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon by Owen Roe, Washington State ($20ish)- I was handed this bottle by a wine rep to take home and experience. It was a crazy Monday, July 1, preparing for the 4^th and all the tourists that join the Newport community during the holidays. Shelving huge deliveries, packing our Wine of the Month Club members’ cases and pulling wine notes and pairings can be quite tedious to the point where I feel like the stallion racing with only the finish line in sight- blinders on. While running around, I was handed a bottle to make love to that evening. Just me and the wine; My favorite way to judge create opinions.

This is a good segway; I got the title of this writing from going on a date. I have been doing research on some Scotch- a subject I know only of the basics. We are ordering a few to re-do our scotch list here at the shop. I come into work a couple mornings ago and my boss says, “hey, it’s time to get those Scotches.” To which I am obviously excited about- new stuff!!! Well, a few hours later I meet this cute blondie with whom I ask a few questions to learn she works the Scottish Government. !!! I’m no dummy. What’s the next thing I talk about? Scotch. She was in. 

Well, the date didn’t go as I wished- well, it did, but it didn’t. Tasted Scotches I've never had before. So, what is it I wish? More connection? Probably some selfish attention. I may have anticipated something unreal. The click? We parted ways and as I walk home, the question I kept asking myself was, “well, what did I expect?” I mean, I was tired, it was a long day. It is a high-stress week of the fourth of July. Many variables. And I am always trying to learn from it; about myself and others and how we communicate and connect. So I default to making it a learning experience, looking at my feelings objectively. 

In that thought of expectations and the whole situation, I was reminded of this fantastic and over-delivering Cabernet I had a night before called “Sharecropper’s”. The contrast of these two situations are revealed in the results. On both occasions I was tired, over-worked, and mellowed out. Yet, the fit, and results were juxtaposed. 

The simple label resembles brown paper bags with a simple font on front and donkey. Admittedly, I probably did that thing I hate and judged it just a little by it’s label. I wasn’t expecting much. I opened the bottle, put out some bread, cheese, and cherries, and sipped the wine. It was an immediate surprise- I think I was expecting something much heavier in weight and jammy fruit (I was expecting the Revelry Cab). But this wine is elegant; it completely seduced me. The color is dark with that raisin influence- not black. The wine in the mouth is full of flavor, rich, yet does not overwhelm the taste bud. This wine is dry without ripping your face off.  It does not weigh down, or over-stimulate, yet it keeps the taste buds light, fresh and free to experience it over and over again. It just wooed me into rest and relaxation.

When I think about Cabs in the summer and warmer weathers, this is what I look for. I look forward to offering this wine to our customers. 

With both of my own personal experiences, I am reminded that judging a book by it’s cover can mean absolutely nothing. What I thought most attractive doesn’t mean it will deliver exactly what I expect. Yet, sometimes what is simple will unexpectedly knock you off your feet. 

Cheers. 

Building the Wine Palette

I am not formally trained in tasting wine properly; I come from the school of hard knocks! I understand that it is an important part of this wine tasting process to build the language of understanding and tasting wine through experience. Which basically means- taste more wine!

For me, I really have to sit in a place that is completely honest. It's funny to talk about, but I really try to mentally clear out a space in my head that can work out the flavors I am tasting. I will literally stand there and take a few deep breaths and clear out any thoughts from the outside world. Honesty is the best policy!

I will say I can sense how easy it is to be influenced by the sales rep. and labels and possibly even my biased opinion of what I think it might be like. For example, I really love good cabernet from California. Probably because thats where i cut my teeth in this wine tasting experience process as a service bartender at Capital Grille. My goodness, Starmont Merryvale Profile and Nickel Nickel Cabs and Merlots from early 2000's?! Cheeses, I'm spoiled. So when I see labels and wines that come from these areas I get all excited. BE CAREFUL, don't force yourself into liking the wine! I constantly remind myself of that: to be completely honest about what I taste and make notes. Then, I really like to listen to what others taste and reflect from the wine.

Through tongue and nostril you will experience notes and tastes that if you listen carefully can connect those to other tastes and experiences that you have had before. I'll go out on a limb and assume a high percentage had eaten a strawberry. The flavors from the berry hits certain parts of your tongue and mouth and your brain translates that for your body as pleasant, or not. and Boom, strawberry was just added to your reservoir of words that you actually taste and can see and know.

The difficult part comes when the tasting notes call for "forest floor" or "cigar box" or "brawny." I have seen it done that one should put dirt IN there mouth and spit it out to understand that soil-y, earth-y flavor some wines have. I'll leave you with this: check Gary Vaynerchuck, an other self-taught- Click Here.

Cheers.

Wine Bros. Tasting

Somebody pinch me.

It's a gloomy Monday; rainy and ... whatever. Today is my second day off in a row, which is interesting  because two days off in a row is a new experience. I mean that quite literally. I'm not crying; it's the life I chose. So, after a recent move and finishing the overwhelming task of school (i was never one for school, and that's a whole 'nother story), I have been embracing my open days to reorganize and be selfish.

After having falafel wraps with a friend, my boss texts me a question asking if I was going to the tasting..... I completely forgot, Be right there.

The day that going into work on my day off becomes enjoyable started today.

Being 1 o'clock in the afternoon I tried to spit everything I was tasting, but Steve and Tom made that basically impossible. "You had me at Pinot Noir" was the line said when agreeing to start NOT spitting out the beautifully elegant quaff. It was the Arcadian Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir- A California Pinot that could truly impress any pinot noir cult narcissist.

Immediately after that I'm tasting 96 point Nebbiolo blends, 94 point Barolo, 95 point Cab and Ovello Barbaresco. IT'S A TOUGH JOB, ... I know. And then it's over. Back to running errands and researching wines and pairings for wine class on Wednesday- Summer Whites for Summer Nights- and everyone is dressing in white!

I write this sitting next to my window open with the rain shushing loudly outside- It is a beautiful, gloomy Monday.

What are we having?

Currently in transition from full-time hospitality into a retail position accepting responsibilities of "buyer" at a local, boutique wine shop. WINE BUYER?! Yes, please. Feel like I should kneel down and be knighted into my position, like Sir Loin of Beef in Bugs Bunny.

I am overly excited to share my integration and envelopment into a business and industry that one could say I have been dancing around for quite some time now. My desire is to share with you this experience of wine tasting and interpretation on all levels.

This is my introduction. I look out the window to sunny sky and cool breeze, drinking sparkling water, surrounded by fermented grape juice bottled by wine makers and families from regions across the whole wide world. What a privilege. I am honored to write and share.

What are we having?