YOU GOTTA WAIT FOR THE “CLICK”

2006 Jean-Marc Morey Santenay Blanc – It just didn’t click for me. A funky front nose and a highly acidic tart finish demanded some weighty food. The wine “clicked” with the Jamestown Fish signature dish, the seafood cookpot. The chourico, spice, butter and touch of cream in the broth was the perfect match complimenting and contrasting the weight and bright acidity of this wine. I found a comfort zone between the pair, but on its own the Burgundy white was surprisingly tart. Still in love with Jean-Marc Morey wines, yet this seven-year-old chardonnay is not one I’ll open to drink on its own. Past it’s prime? Possibly.

Jamestown Fish served us some of the highest quality, most passionately made dishes I have had in a very long time. Fresh (that day) scallop and tuna served raw, sliced, topped with Israeli Osetra Caviar accompanied by heirloom grape tomatoes, sliced avocado and an herb olive oil reflecting precision, passion, and well-rounded stimulation of the senses. The clam linguine stayed true to the proper flavors and textures by definition- the clams thrown in late as not to over cook, the sauce not heavy-laiden with butter or too much wine. 

Talking with owner/executive chef Matthew and his colleagues inspired me at that moment to rethink everything I am doing in life and to make sure I am following my passion. The way Chef Helio Araujo spoke about the ice cream and how he must let it sit so that the air settles out and it firms up a bit to create the traditional texture he looks for. In his eyes, in his words, and in every movement you could feel the passion pouring into his art.

There is something about learning anything about anything or anyone that can be a little fumbly or bumpy. Any new information about any subject must go through this process of collecting, organizing and finding its proper place. Throughout the evening I found that even though that Santenay may not have been the taste I was looking for, having someone and/or others to talk with about it makes the decision about that wine more real. You gotta be honest. It absolutely doesn’t hurt to open a few others for comparison. Chef Matthew and his colleagues allowed me and my date to try a 2007 Latour-Giraud Bourgogne Chardonnay and the upper level 2009 Latour-Giraud Meursault-Genevrieres Premier Cru as well as a Walter Hansel Chardonnay. The favorite- Walter Hansel Chardonnay. The weight and cleanliness showed through as simple, yet chiseled, expressing it's fruit perfectly without any heavy oak. As Chef Matt was saying, "this wine is focussed."

Everyone has their favorites. The different characters expressed come from age, region, wine maker, grape, climate, and any external influences. Appreciate each wine and all the information you can gather from it. Not every wine has to be my favorite, but all this experience helps me understand the wines that are my favorites. When trying any new wine, give it some time and just wait for the “click”. 

Cheers.