IN LOVE AGAIN WITH CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR:

I would argue that in order to truly fall in love, one must trudge through difficult times with their object of love. Distance inevitably created between them for open space to think and reflect on the other while continuing the daily routine. So I've spent some time away from le California Pinot.

Pinot Noir threw me some loops. Last summer I had the opportunity to learn about and experience Burgundy Pinot Noir. Albert Bichot, Jean Marc Morey, Hubert Lignier,… I watched these wines pour into the glass and immediately was impressed by the light-red, ruby color that these wines were showing. Condensed in the glass, the ruby red has left an impression in me that gets me all excited every time I even think about that picture, anticipating pure joy. Spoiled at the Cooke House I am, being able to taste bits and ends of these crystal-ly,  elegant rubies. Now I have a tough time comparing Pinot Noir to anything else which is completely unfair. I have started to call the light-style pinot noirs as “Burgundian Style”, which I thought was ok after experiencing the Torii Mor Pinot Noir, from Oregon. At Torii Mor, winemaker Jacques Tardy brings his background, his roots, his beliefs, knowledge, and experiences into its fullest expression within the Pinot Noir he makes. Jacques comes from the Cote de Nuits of Burgundy, France.

On July 4, I opened a 2008 Au Bon Climat from Santa Barbara, California for my dad’s birthday. Hi Dad! You know sometimes when you just nail it? Everything fits perfect? Dinner that night for my father’s birthday was smoked chicken with a robust salad full with mesculin greens, blueberries, peaches, veggies, dill herbs and light feta. It just worked perfectly. The fruit in the wine highlighted the smoke of the chicken and the fruit in the salad. The spice in the wine held up to the fat in the skin and the mesculin greens, herbs and cheese in the salad. The body of the wine is light, perfect not to overpower the palette on a hot summer eve. An experience full with flavor.

Lucky I am to be able to taste wines unavailable anywhere else in the country, like this Abiouness from Carneros (Pommard Clone and Stanley Ranch). Chloe Creek is a gem Pinot from Russian River, California, made by a small producer who has ties in upstate New York- where much of my family is from. The Calera collection I anticipate to be an amazing experience. Hendry and Belle Pente are all up there in our collection of Pinot-Noir-impressiveness.

THE Sinskey family is in town and I had the opportunity to join them yesterday at Local 121 in Providence. Meeting the Sinskey family was reassuring and confirming to all the accolades I have heard from others before meeting them. Highlighting the Pinot Noir, their wines are made honest to their beliefs of good wine, not-manipulated, and true to the terroir the grapes are grown. Giving the finger to the rich, fat, popular judges, they avoid the points-rating system. The vineyards in Carneros, which Robert’s father started acquiring back in the 60’s, grow some incredible pinot noir creating some gorgeous, flavorful wine. Thank you, Sinskey family, for helping me fall in love again with California Pinot Noir; all of your wines are amazing. Your attitude and philosophy is one I believe in. 

Cheers!