YOU GOTTA WAIT FOR THE “CLICK”

2006 Jean-Marc Morey Santenay Blanc – It just didn’t click for me. A funky front nose and a highly acidic tart finish demanded some weighty food. The wine “clicked” with the Jamestown Fish signature dish, the seafood cookpot. The chourico, spice, butter and touch of cream in the broth was the perfect match complimenting and contrasting the weight and bright acidity of this wine. I found a comfort zone between the pair, but on its own the Burgundy white was surprisingly tart. Still in love with Jean-Marc Morey wines, yet this seven-year-old chardonnay is not one I’ll open to drink on its own. Past it’s prime? Possibly.

Jamestown Fish served us some of the highest quality, most passionately made dishes I have had in a very long time. Fresh (that day) scallop and tuna served raw, sliced, topped with Israeli Osetra Caviar accompanied by heirloom grape tomatoes, sliced avocado and an herb olive oil reflecting precision, passion, and well-rounded stimulation of the senses. The clam linguine stayed true to the proper flavors and textures by definition- the clams thrown in late as not to over cook, the sauce not heavy-laiden with butter or too much wine. 

Talking with owner/executive chef Matthew and his colleagues inspired me at that moment to rethink everything I am doing in life and to make sure I am following my passion. The way Chef Helio Araujo spoke about the ice cream and how he must let it sit so that the air settles out and it firms up a bit to create the traditional texture he looks for. In his eyes, in his words, and in every movement you could feel the passion pouring into his art.

There is something about learning anything about anything or anyone that can be a little fumbly or bumpy. Any new information about any subject must go through this process of collecting, organizing and finding its proper place. Throughout the evening I found that even though that Santenay may not have been the taste I was looking for, having someone and/or others to talk with about it makes the decision about that wine more real. You gotta be honest. It absolutely doesn’t hurt to open a few others for comparison. Chef Matthew and his colleagues allowed me and my date to try a 2007 Latour-Giraud Bourgogne Chardonnay and the upper level 2009 Latour-Giraud Meursault-Genevrieres Premier Cru as well as a Walter Hansel Chardonnay. The favorite- Walter Hansel Chardonnay. The weight and cleanliness showed through as simple, yet chiseled, expressing it's fruit perfectly without any heavy oak. As Chef Matt was saying, "this wine is focussed."

Everyone has their favorites. The different characters expressed come from age, region, wine maker, grape, climate, and any external influences. Appreciate each wine and all the information you can gather from it. Not every wine has to be my favorite, but all this experience helps me understand the wines that are my favorites. When trying any new wine, give it some time and just wait for the “click”. 

Cheers. 

IN LOVE AGAIN WITH CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR:

I would argue that in order to truly fall in love, one must trudge through difficult times with their object of love. Distance inevitably created between them for open space to think and reflect on the other while continuing the daily routine. So I've spent some time away from le California Pinot.

Pinot Noir threw me some loops. Last summer I had the opportunity to learn about and experience Burgundy Pinot Noir. Albert Bichot, Jean Marc Morey, Hubert Lignier,… I watched these wines pour into the glass and immediately was impressed by the light-red, ruby color that these wines were showing. Condensed in the glass, the ruby red has left an impression in me that gets me all excited every time I even think about that picture, anticipating pure joy. Spoiled at the Cooke House I am, being able to taste bits and ends of these crystal-ly,  elegant rubies. Now I have a tough time comparing Pinot Noir to anything else which is completely unfair. I have started to call the light-style pinot noirs as “Burgundian Style”, which I thought was ok after experiencing the Torii Mor Pinot Noir, from Oregon. At Torii Mor, winemaker Jacques Tardy brings his background, his roots, his beliefs, knowledge, and experiences into its fullest expression within the Pinot Noir he makes. Jacques comes from the Cote de Nuits of Burgundy, France.

On July 4, I opened a 2008 Au Bon Climat from Santa Barbara, California for my dad’s birthday. Hi Dad! You know sometimes when you just nail it? Everything fits perfect? Dinner that night for my father’s birthday was smoked chicken with a robust salad full with mesculin greens, blueberries, peaches, veggies, dill herbs and light feta. It just worked perfectly. The fruit in the wine highlighted the smoke of the chicken and the fruit in the salad. The spice in the wine held up to the fat in the skin and the mesculin greens, herbs and cheese in the salad. The body of the wine is light, perfect not to overpower the palette on a hot summer eve. An experience full with flavor.

Lucky I am to be able to taste wines unavailable anywhere else in the country, like this Abiouness from Carneros (Pommard Clone and Stanley Ranch). Chloe Creek is a gem Pinot from Russian River, California, made by a small producer who has ties in upstate New York- where much of my family is from. The Calera collection I anticipate to be an amazing experience. Hendry and Belle Pente are all up there in our collection of Pinot-Noir-impressiveness.

THE Sinskey family is in town and I had the opportunity to join them yesterday at Local 121 in Providence. Meeting the Sinskey family was reassuring and confirming to all the accolades I have heard from others before meeting them. Highlighting the Pinot Noir, their wines are made honest to their beliefs of good wine, not-manipulated, and true to the terroir the grapes are grown. Giving the finger to the rich, fat, popular judges, they avoid the points-rating system. The vineyards in Carneros, which Robert’s father started acquiring back in the 60’s, grow some incredible pinot noir creating some gorgeous, flavorful wine. Thank you, Sinskey family, for helping me fall in love again with California Pinot Noir; all of your wines are amazing. Your attitude and philosophy is one I believe in. 

Cheers! 

Expectations and biased opinions interrupt the learning experience-

Sharecropper’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon by Owen Roe, Washington State ($20ish)- I was handed this bottle by a wine rep to take home and experience. It was a crazy Monday, July 1, preparing for the 4^th and all the tourists that join the Newport community during the holidays. Shelving huge deliveries, packing our Wine of the Month Club members’ cases and pulling wine notes and pairings can be quite tedious to the point where I feel like the stallion racing with only the finish line in sight- blinders on. While running around, I was handed a bottle to make love to that evening. Just me and the wine; My favorite way to judge create opinions.

This is a good segway; I got the title of this writing from going on a date. I have been doing research on some Scotch- a subject I know only of the basics. We are ordering a few to re-do our scotch list here at the shop. I come into work a couple mornings ago and my boss says, “hey, it’s time to get those Scotches.” To which I am obviously excited about- new stuff!!! Well, a few hours later I meet this cute blondie with whom I ask a few questions to learn she works the Scottish Government. !!! I’m no dummy. What’s the next thing I talk about? Scotch. She was in. 

Well, the date didn’t go as I wished- well, it did, but it didn’t. Tasted Scotches I've never had before. So, what is it I wish? More connection? Probably some selfish attention. I may have anticipated something unreal. The click? We parted ways and as I walk home, the question I kept asking myself was, “well, what did I expect?” I mean, I was tired, it was a long day. It is a high-stress week of the fourth of July. Many variables. And I am always trying to learn from it; about myself and others and how we communicate and connect. So I default to making it a learning experience, looking at my feelings objectively. 

In that thought of expectations and the whole situation, I was reminded of this fantastic and over-delivering Cabernet I had a night before called “Sharecropper’s”. The contrast of these two situations are revealed in the results. On both occasions I was tired, over-worked, and mellowed out. Yet, the fit, and results were juxtaposed. 

The simple label resembles brown paper bags with a simple font on front and donkey. Admittedly, I probably did that thing I hate and judged it just a little by it’s label. I wasn’t expecting much. I opened the bottle, put out some bread, cheese, and cherries, and sipped the wine. It was an immediate surprise- I think I was expecting something much heavier in weight and jammy fruit (I was expecting the Revelry Cab). But this wine is elegant; it completely seduced me. The color is dark with that raisin influence- not black. The wine in the mouth is full of flavor, rich, yet does not overwhelm the taste bud. This wine is dry without ripping your face off.  It does not weigh down, or over-stimulate, yet it keeps the taste buds light, fresh and free to experience it over and over again. It just wooed me into rest and relaxation.

When I think about Cabs in the summer and warmer weathers, this is what I look for. I look forward to offering this wine to our customers. 

With both of my own personal experiences, I am reminded that judging a book by it’s cover can mean absolutely nothing. What I thought most attractive doesn’t mean it will deliver exactly what I expect. Yet, sometimes what is simple will unexpectedly knock you off your feet. 

Cheers.